Tuesday, July 16, 2013

Babushka vs Spy

It’s a nice 90 degree day and despite the stale heat, it’s a beautiful day.  As I was standing on the crowded bus, trying my best to keep myself calm and collected, I saw this babushka make a mad dash onto the bus with, you guessed it, two enormous bags.  It didn’t matter that there were other people boarding at the same time, and it mattered even less to her that the bus continued to idle for another two minutes which meant that the rushing was completely unnecessary.  This got me thinking about babushkii in general.  Yes, I know every traveler from Moscow to Kurdistan has a story about a babushka, and most of these stories are hilarious as they are special.  There is the story of the babushka freaking out because a girl was sitting on a bench in the winter and she thought that her eggs would freeze.  There’s the story of an old woman giving an uncalled for lecture to a guy because he had dirty shoes.  There’s the ever classic story of not one babushka, but several shouting at some students because they were speaking any language other than Russian.   And my personal favorite, being spoken to firmly because I had the misfortune of snagging my nylons; it was after all my goal to waste five dollars by ripping my nylons on purpose. 

Now you may be asking yourself: why do they care so much?  Or for that matter, do they really care or do they just need something to talk about?  The Soviet Union is but a dim a memory for many of the young people these days, so perhaps the aging generation is desperately trying to make their voices heard to validate the years of conformity.  Just like rebellious teens that make it a point to dress wildly and shout obscenities; the senior generation has to pass judgment on those they simply don’t understand.  Like countless people it must be a shock to wake up one day and realize that the world which you grew up in is long gone.  These women were raised in an era where people had a handful of patterns and materials to choose from for clothes, impressively long lines for eggs and milk and were really allowed to form personal opinions; imagine the astonishment to see their grandchildren, especially girls, running around in what can only be described as porn style Soviet school uniforms where the skirts barely conceal butt cheeks.  We now live in a world where we have access to vast quantities of information, no one is afraid to criticize the government (correction, you’re allowed to grumble and you better not be someone in office) and traveling is open to all those who which to deal with the paperwork.  In other words, it’s a brave new world.  In this world no one cares a girl is sitting on something cold, a young man under age 30 will be annoyed about being dirty, but won’t panic and no one will lecture you for speaking a different language.  Will they stare at you?  Absolutely.  Will they tell you to shut up?  No.  Will they think you’re a spy?  Well, something never change with time; but once people accept that you are a spy you may continue with business as usual.       
Let me backtrack a bit about The Babushka; first thing’s first, what exactly is a babushka?  It’s a fun fact that all foreigners who come to the post-Soviet world use this word instead of the English word ‘grandmother’.  Why?  Perhaps it’s because elderly ladies from America, England, Australia etc are just, for lack of a better word, different than they are in Ukraine, Russia, Kazakhstan and so on.  The typical body type of a babushka is square with massively wrestler type arms.   She will have either a classic color of hair such as brown or blonde, but just to walk on the wild side; it’s not unheard of to see babushki with purple or magenta colored hair.  Keeping this imagine in mind…imagine her with gold teeth and a shawl wrapped around her.  It sounds like I’m describing a stereotype.  I’m not doing much to promote the open-mindedness which I pride myself on, but bear with me.  The purple haired babushka which wears just about every color combination and pattern known to man is my favorite.  She is the one who will happily shout at a young person and demand that they give her their seat on the bus, but at the same time, she will happily give up her seat a pregnant woman.  She will be upset that you don’t speak Russian, but if you’re buying tomatoes or milk from her she will undercharge you by ten rubles (about fifty cents).  If you are invited for a meal with her, she will spend all day cooking for you and be offended if you get full and it’s just possible to eat another piece of cake.  Paradoxical?  Undeniably.  And with these clearly generous yet confusing people, they can be summed up in one word:  Russia.  

Nothing annoys me more than being pushed on an already overcrowded bus by an old woman who hasn’t used a toothbrush in about a week only to told by the same woman that I should somehow move some more because she has to make room for her bag.  Speaking of bags, even young people will ask, what’s in a babushka’s bag?  Potatoes?  Slippers?  Body parts to be sold on the black market?  Perhaps precious metals to be melted down for some nefarious purpose, but whatever may be in those ever present suitcase style bags, they are clearly heavy as they are ugly.  If you’re going to be running all around the city with such huge bags and pushing people with them, at least have the decency to push people with a fake Louis or knock-off Gucci bag.  Since this happens on a weekly basis it more or less makes me crazy.  After all, once again, who do these women think they are?  Yes, they do have their charm but the charm is like a light switch: they’ll be fine one moment and go off at the bus conductor for driving one meter further than normal.     
My friend and I were discussing a curious situation about crossing the street since the lights didn’t seem to be working and as usual the drivers had no idea what to.  She just scanned the streets for a babushka and decided to cross when she did.  I naively asked her why and she just shrugged her shoulders and said, “when in doubt, just do what the babushka does”.  This made me laugh and I told her that I wanted to make t-shirts with this funny yet very accurate piece of advice.     

You may also be asking yourself, ‘yes, the streets are filled with bi-polar babushki, but where are the grandfathers?' Notice the language shift?  We don’t use the Russian word, ‘dedushka’ we simply say old man or old guy.  The easy explanation is that we, as in travelers, don’t have the same experiences with them like we do with women.  Yet the sad truth is that most of men just die younger; and perhaps this statically depressing fact is what also drives the women to act as they do.  Whatever the case may be, Russia wouldn’t be Russia without babushki.  

       

No comments:

Post a Comment