Saturday, May 24, 2014

The comfort of Yekaterinburg

So another birthday has come and gone.  So much has happened, and yet it still feels like a dream.  May 1-5 Gabi and I went to Yekaterinburg, which was amazing…perhaps I’ll start with that.
Sasha escorted me to the train station, and no trip is complete without journey juice, this time it was vodka with lemons and sugar.  For some reason, we, as in Sasha, Gabi and even I were a bit more nervous than usual; however the moment we were on the platform I felt it.  The big IT that I love almost as much as I love life itself, the sensation that comes with every new adventure.  My blood starts pumping, and I can’t stop smiling, the thrill of just knowing and not knowing what the near future may bring.  For lack of a better word, it’s like a hit.  A big hit of the travel drug. 

The train ride itself was fairly uneventful.  I got some much needed sleep, day dreamed and stared out of the window as we left Siberia behind and entered the Ural region.  Landscape wise, we couldn’t tell one tree from another.  Just in case we all forgot, Russia is a vast forest, and it’s rather difficult to tell the difference at times.  Anyway, upon arriving in Yekat (that’s the short name and it’s what I’m going to call it from here on out) we were greeted with fairly warm weather.  Happily, for once I had the foresight to obtain a local taxi number and arranged to have a taxi waiting for us once we arrived.  After the mishaps in Tomsk and Krasnoyarsk when it comes to hoping for the best when it comes to arriving late, I just wanted to save my nerves and grief and wanted to avoid a problem. 
The hotel was impressive and they didn’t mislead us when they advertised that they were located in the center of the city, it really is.  And they were quite friendly, and even though they didn’t speak English, it wasn’t a problem.  Our room looked exactly like the pictures on the website, which was even better, overall, so far, so good. 
Our first real day in Yekat was cloudy yet warm so we went to Храм на Крови – Church of Spilled Blood where the Romanov’s were killed.  Such places really get to me, and I don’t like them, I can feel the energy and sorrow and it kills my mood.  However, this trip was not about me, it was about seeing the city and making sure that Gabi and I got to see what we both wanted.  To be fair, the inside of the church is quite beautiful.  Yes, of course you need to cover your head, and yes, you can’t talk or sit or take pictures, but really, would you really want to?  After spending quite a long time at this location, we were in need of warmth and coffee. 

One problem we can never seem to avoid is finding coffee.  I even had a fancy new smartphone and it was still a problem.  It’s never a good sign when we start snapping at each other about which brand of water is better or the correct way to describe the color of the grey sky.  During the endless hunt for a coffee shop, we found ourselves in the midst of a marathon, or at least what looked like a marathon.  On a good day we wouldn’t have minded, but since we were still a little tired from the train and caffeine deprived, we weren’t in the mood to deal with people running in jeans or even sandals and calling it a marathon.  But since I can only run after a bus or a cat, I’ll let that slide.

At some point we came across a coffee place and were much happier.  The universe was allowed to continue.  Along the way we were impressed with the modern architecture and overall showing of wealth.  One of the impressive things about the city are the wide streets and cream colored buildings.  It gives the city an air of wealth and for lack of a better word, European.  I’m not a huge fan of European architecture, but I can appreciate the finer details of statues and crown molding. Architecture aside, the people were friendly and patient with our less than perfect Russian.  The Urals yield some amazing stones, such as amethyst, magnetite and various colors of quartz, and the people seem to be quite proud of it.  Magnetite is by far the most stunning; the dark yet bright green color offers the eye something different from the standard gold and silver variety.  After strolling around the Romanov Death Site, the Church of Spilled Blood, the city center and endless streets and alleys; needless to say, we were exhausted.  The only way to remedy the situation was to take up our hotel on their offer of using the sauna, compete with steam room and cold water pool.  It was perfect, just what we needed.  After an hour of breathing in the lavender and pine scents, then jumping in the cold water, just to run back to the steam room; we felt rejuvenated. 


Then came time to make the big decision, which night club to check out?  A few people had recommended a place called Chili which was within walking distance from the hotel, but the hotel staff recommended a place called Agave which was a resto-club.  Such places really make me crazy: you should either dance and then eat, or eat and then go dancing, not both.  A dance club is meant for dancing, not for eating salad.  But somehow I got talked into going to this place. 









We arrived at around midnight, and were surprised that there weren’t more people there; it was a Friday night after all. Slight disappointment aside, the interior was spacious and unusual, the best room where we spent most of the night, was a mix of American and African decorations.  The music was intoxicating, I can’t remember the last time I heard such a great mix of dance and lounge music.  I would suggest this for the simple fact of great music, but not good for dancing.  At four in the morning we finally managed to crawl back to our hotel.  So I can't say it was all bad, after all, we almost saw the sunrise.  Almost.


After a few precious hours of sleep, we were up once again and were greeted by a bright sky and warm weather.  It was the perfect day to see the monument which separates Asia and Europe.  We had to take a taxi out there, which was huge disappointment to me since it’s a tourist place and tourism means public transport.  The perk of a taxi was that we were able to nap for another thirty minutes.  The monument was nice.  What can I say about it?  It was excited to see it, but dismayed that there wasn’t more to it; we did take a taxi out there after all.  I was pouting about having to pay for another taxi when a man overheard me asking the manager of the small store which sells instant coffee to use his phone so I could order another taxi.  He then asked me where I was going, and not really sure how to answer, I said the one place that Gabi and I had casually discussed.  He offered to take us back to the city free of charge.  Trusting my sixth sense, I agreed then told him that I had to tell Gabi that we’d be hitching a ride.  Naturally, she was a little less than enthusiastic about this idea, but didn’t have much of a choice.  Further discussion revealed that he was the accountant of the monument and had live in the city for his whole life and was more than happy to show around the two foreign girls.  We learned that Yekaterinburg is home to making tanks, and mining.  Mining was obvious, but tanks?  Not so much.  He then drove us to Boris Yeltsin’s monument and dropped us off at a photo museum.  Thus proving people can still surprise you by random acts of kindness and generosity.



The museum which Gabi wanted to see was filled with black and white photos about life in the rural countryside.  After another exhausting day of urban hiking and picture taking, we decided to take a load off in a mall.  I was pleasantly impressed with the discovery of Stockman, an import store which specializes in products form Europe and America, namely fun stuff such as maple syrup and ranch dressing. 

Our last night in Yekaterinburg was spent in an Italian restaurant sipping wine and relishing in the comfort of the experience overall.  It’s not often that a person can feel so comfortable or at home in a foreign city, but I have to admit, it’s easy to fall in love with this place.  It’s a nice mix of the hustle and bustle of Moscow, but without the prices or attitude.             

Tuesday, May 6, 2014

Rose Colored Vodka Glasses Part 1

It's been brought to my attention that my previous posts are too negative.  This was not my intent, just the opposite; truth be told, Russia has really gotten under my skin.  Yes, I complain and make jokes about Russia, but doesn't everyone make jokes and complain about things in their lives?  How many conversations begin with complaints about the weather or the price of milk? So, without further adu, I present a short but hopefully optimistic list about things I like about Russia:

1)  I love the fact that people can linger on the streets and drink beer.  There's no better way to spend a warm evening then sitting outside and laughing with friends and enjoying a brewed beverage.

2)  I love that women are allowed to be women here, as in they are encouraged to get their hair and nails done without being judged by their girlfriends.  It's such a strange paradox with American women about having their hair or nails done.  It's encourgaged but at the same time, looked down upon.  A girl with manicured nails is automatically catagorizd as either a rich girl or a bitch.  It's silly that women have to justify the simple fact that it's quite pleasent to have a manicure done.  

3)  You are allowed to show your emotions.  If you don't want to talk to someone, you don't have to.  If someone is being rude, it's okay to tell them.  In a bad mood?  It's cool, embrace it.  You're even allowed to simply ignore people.  This never ceases to impress me.  There is a real talent for not giving someone the time of day.  Just yesterday I was at the bus stop and this tall, slightly dirty man was desperately trying to talk to a young guy who just couldn't be bothered with even turning his head to give the guy the time of day.  Many times when I even glance at the person trying to talk to me, I find myself having a silly conversation about parsley or snow or something even more pointless- all because I haven't perfected the art of ignoring people.  Russian women are the true masters of evading unwanted conversations.  I can't even count the times I've seen women pretty much surround themselves in a bubble of silence.  

4)  Any occasion is an occasion for flowers.  It doesn't have to be a birthday or holiday or even an apology gift, flowers are supposed to be given to ladies at random intervals.  Flowers are a serious business here, you can't even throw a rock without hitting a flower stand.

5)  Public transport.  I've said it before and I'll say it again, public transport is simply amazing.  Did you miss your bus?  No problem, just wait five minutes for another one.  Not enough room?  Just push your way on.  If there isn't a bus, there's always a marshrutka.  Marshrutkas along with marshrutka drivers deserve a daily prize.  They can somehow drive, text, take money, shout at other drivers at the same time.  Not to forget their incredible maneuvering capabilities on the sometimes less than ideal roads; pot holes, traffic, daring pedestrian and flying debris which finds itself on the roads.  I once saw a table just sitting in the middle of the road.

6) Lack of political correctness.  I know this sounds like an insult, but hear me out.  If we compare a few things that Americans are always worried about.  Since it's Easter season, let's start with that.  In Russia, on Easter everyone says  Христос Воскрес!  Christ is risen.  We all know that in the states you can't just run around saying this because chances are you're going to piss off a lot of people.  In Russia, no one cares; they don't see it as a glorification of religion, they see it as a holiday and something nice to say.  The same goes for Happy Woman's Day or Happy Victory Day.  If you say that you don't celebrate this, they will simply shrug their shoulders and go about their business.

Just to expand on this a bit, the same idea goes for school subjects such as biology, namely the fun topic of evolution.  Evolution is grounded in science and therefore considered a fact and that's how they teach it in school.  If you want something more spiritual or if you don't like it, ask your parents, but don't bring it up in school.  This seems, well, really quite logical.  Many people have asked me why there are court cases about the teaching of evolution.  Truth is, I don't know how to answer this. Do I go with 'religious rights' speech or the 'separation of Church and State' OR 'God snapped his fingers and here we are and not everyone agrees' speech?  

I have to admit, it's refreshing not having to censor or be in constant check about simple things such as holidays and people's professions.

7) The famed Russian Hospitality.  If you're ever invited over for dinner, or better still, invited to a dacha, you had better arrive starving and be prepared to sit and eat and drink for hours.  I don't simply mean beer or vodka, be ready to consume vast quantities of tea and or coffee.  While it's true that Russian food can still be a bit on the bland side for me (I was raised on green chili and red peppers) it doesn't mean that the meat isn't tender or the vegetables aren't fresh and mouthwatering.  Guests are treated to an endless supply of salads and meat dishes, not to mention an endless assortment of sweets and cakes.